Baby It's Cold Outside!

The temps are dropping fast! If you didn't feel it a few weeks ago, you are well aware of the drafts in your home.

Energy loss is greatest at any opening in your exterior. This is why it is so important to hire a pro to install your doors and windows. They may make it look easy on TV, but believe me this is one DIY project that needs to stay in the DIY project book pages. One mistake, one single seem missed or left exposed, will completely negate all of the efforts to stop energy loss.

*If properly installed, you should never have to put plastic over your windows for the winter.

Air leaks generally come from the seal between the rough framing of the wall and the window or door frame. To check where the air leak is at, take a feather and slowly trace the window or door. Watch for the feather to blow in towards you. If the areas are anywhere in the window itself, contact a window  and door installation contractor and have them complete a thorough inspection of your windows and doors. If it is at the trim, there is DIY project that can stop the leaks by insulating with spray foam.

You will need a hammer, razor knife, 4-6" drywall mud knife, flat bar, and a pair of end nippers (pliers will do).

You first want to score the wall around the trim. This will cut any paint or caulk that is holding the trim to the wall and help prevent damage to the wall.

Now slide your 4-6" drywall knife under the trim at the corner. Line the center of the knife with the first nail and slide under until you hit the nail. Lift the handle prying the trim away from the wall. You will not remove the trim at this point. The purpose is to make enough space between the wall and trim to get the flat bar under the trim doing as little damage to the wall and trim as possible. Work your way around the trim until there is sufficient space to insert the flat bar.

Insert the flat bar at each nail using the 90 degree end of the flat bar. Use your drywall knife to protect the wall from damage by placing it between the wall and flat bar. Pry the trim evenly away from the wall, at each nail location, only lifting the trim about 1/2" at a time. Once you have gone around the trim 2-3 times, the trim should break loose from the wall fairly easy.

Now that the trim is down, pull the nails through the back of the trim. This may tear it up a bit, but the majority of the damage will be on the wall side.

Now that you have exposed the area around the door or window inspect for any signs of water penetration. If you see any mold stop and call a window and door contractor and have them complete a full inspection. 

In the case that all looks good, remove  any fiber insulation from the space between the rough framing of the wall and window frame. It is usually compacted into these spaces, loosing most of it's insulating value.

Now grab a can of DOOR & WINDOW spray foam and fill all gaps and cracks according to the instructions on the can. DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT PRODUCTS MADE FOR DOORS AND WINDOWS. Using other products can cause damage to the door or window.

Once these areas have been sealed, wait for the foam to dry, cut off any excess with the drywall knife and nail the trim back into place. You will now need to caulk around the trim on all sides and paint. (Make sure that you use PAINTABLE caulk).